Here is the before and beautiful after.

The brief

The coat is made from high quality supple leather and has a pristine mink lining and collar. The sleeves are lined with Thinsulate and polyester lining.

My first recommendation was to remove the fur lining and collar and shorten the coat. I would then use the leftover material from the bottom of the coat to remake the tailored collar into leather.

With the fur lining, I suggested making it a standalone knee length vest for his partner. This would be a timeless women’s piece that she could wear for decades to come.

Here are the pieces once disassembled:

Redesigning the leather coat

For the leather jacket, I find that a hip length is the ideal option for this coat. I want to make sure it’s not too short since the coat is double breasted and has slanted welt pockets. These are design features more typically seen in longer coats. To replace the fur, I used a heavy weight bemberg lining that I re-attached to the existing sleeves.

For the tailored collar, I used the bottom of the jacket to make the top part of the collar. Since the pieces had seams, there’s now an added detail of seams across the bottom lapel and the collar. I finished the collar with a double stitch to replicate the stitching detail of the front opening.

Upcycling the fur lining

For the lining, I suggested we remove the tailored collar and reshape the front into a rounded neckline for a modern yet timeless look. My client’s partner also wanted to wear the vest with the fur on the inside so this design would work perfectly to make the vest reversible.

The fur lining had a layer of fabric attached to it which I’m guessing was added to reinforce the fur. In order to make the vest reversible, I had to remove the fabric interfacing so we could see the beautiful reverse side of the pelts. I also needed to remove about 4 1/4″ of fur from the centre back in order for it to fit on his partner who was a bit smaller. I reused the fur from that panel to reshape the neckline.

Once the fabric interfacing was removed, I realized that the pelts were attached together with very narrow fur surged stitches. This unfortunately meant that the vest itself was more likely to tear at the neckline and armholes. To reinforce these areas, I proposed we sew a leather binding, using the leftover material from the jacket.

This design feature looked so good, that we decided to add the binding around the patch pockets as well in order to tie the piece together. Because my client’s partner felt that she would wear it mainly on the reverse side, I applied the pockets on the reverse.

Here’s the final look on both sides of the upcycled fur vest

Although a more elaborate and time consuming project, these new pieces can be worn on a daily basis now instead of staying as a vintage coat left unused.

Do you have well loved pieces that are in need of a revamp? Contact me to see how we can turn your keepsakes into practical and timeless pieces.

The post Upcycling A Vintage Leather And Fur Coat appeared first on Modern Mending.

The Brief

The original dress is a beautiful boho inspired skirt with a variety of different lace panels. It’s a combination of gathered lace as well as semi circular lace pieces. There is a 5″ jaquard panel at the waist with a lace appliqué in the front in the shape of an M. All the pieces are also inter-cut with various textured ribbons.

The inspiration

She sent me a few reference images of various styles she likes which were a great starting point for the design.

The design

I decided to offer her two options which I thought would work well. The first option would be to leave the skirt intact and add a wrap-over style camisole at the top and an additional under layer lace panel in the same material at the bottom to make the dress full length. This style is less fitted and required less work so was a less expensive option

The second option, was to deconstruct the skirt, use the hip jacquard panel as the top part of a bustier, make wide straps out of new lace that gathers at the top of the bodice, create a middle fitted, drop down waist bodice (without boning) using some of the skirt lace as well as solid panels on the side to match the jacquard. Finally, also add an additional under layer lace panel using new lace to make it full length. My client selected option 2.

The process

Once the design is selected the next step consists in making a muslin toile of the dress or garment using the client’s measurements. We use a muslin to make any fitting adjustments before cutting the actual fabric. I usually do 1 or 2 fittings depending on the complexity of the garment. For this dress, I did 2 fittings since a bustier is more complex.

The next step consisted of finding new fabric that would work well with the existing lace. Because the original skirt was made of many different types and slight colour variations of lace, it was easier to choose textiles that weren’t necessarily identical but that would complement the original design.

I found a beautiful corded lace that was slightly darker but the same hue as the skirt. For the side panels, I found two options that worked well, an ivory satin and a beautiful silk voile. Because of it’s luxurious feel, we decided to go with the silk voile. Since the original skirt has a few types of lace ribbon, I purchased a ribbon that could be appliqued over the bustier.

Once the dress was assembled, we did a final fitting and realized that the under layer, although the concept matched the original skirt, had a bit of a bell shape and didn’t look as nice. We decided to attach the border to the skirt instead so the bottom would have more volume. We also decided to modify the neckline from a to a heart shape so it followed the shape of the appliqué.

The final look

The dress turned out beautifully and my client was overjoyed. I was particularly please with how the straps turned out, by using the new lace trimmed with the thin ribbon I purchased which ties together beautifully with the original skirt.

I love that her mother kept this skirt and we were able to transform it in order to give it a second life. This piece will now become a family heirloom, and perhaps can be worn again by a future generation.

Do you have a special occasion coming up or want to transform a loved piece into something different? Contact me for a free quote.

The post Designing The Perfect Upcycled Grad Dress appeared first on Modern Mending.

How to lengthen skinny jeans

My favourite way to lengthen a pair of skinny jeans is by adding a faux cuff. What I like about this technique is that you would never know that the jeans have been lengthened because it appears like the jeans were simply folded twice. This is a good technique when you need to lengthen the jeans up to 3″.

For this alteration, I used fabric from an old pair of jeans to make the double layered cuff. I used the reverse side of the denim and made sure to keep the original serged seam allowance for the outside seam. You can do the same for the inner seam but since it doesn’t show as much, it’s not necessary.

Lengthening flare or wide jeans

When you want to lengthen jeans, you can either go with a similar colour denim so that it doesn’t stick out, or you can do like I did for the jeans below and make it a design feature by using the reverse side denim for a contrasting look.

When it comes to lengthening flare or wide jeans, it’s important to make sure to use the same fibre content for the extended piece as the jeans. For example, only use 100% cotton denim for 100% cotton jeans. Otherwise the cuffs won’t fall nicely. With this design, I find there’s no maximum length you can do, and actually, in fact, the larger the cuff, the better it looks.

Bowen and West Van folks, do you have favourite pieces that just don’t fit perfectly anymore? Contact me for a free in house consultation.

The post How To Lengthen Jeans That Are Too Short appeared first on Modern Mending.

Sweater to use

For this scarf, you will need a felted sweater. Don’t try using a sweater that is not made of natural animal fibres because the sides will unravel once you start cutting. Wool and cashmere will felt once machine washed and dried, turning them into pieces that do not unravel.

1) Cut seam allowances

Flip your sweater inside out and cut the seam allowances of the side seams, the arm seams and shoulder seams.

2) Sew arms together

Using the pictures as reference, sew the sleeves together with a 3/8″ seam allowance. Iron the seam allowances open making sure your iron is set at the lowest temperature.

3) Cut top of sleeves

Trace a straight line where the sleeve head is at it’s largest and cut the excess fabric.

4) Cut excess sleeve fabric in 2

Fold each piece of the excess fabric in half and cut. You will use these pieces to fill in the armhole gap on the front and back body.

5) Sew sleeve head to armhole

Place pieces of excess sleeve head fabric next to armhole. With a fabric chalk, trace a curve similar to the armhole around the sleeve head piece and cut.

Then sew the sleeve head piece to the armhole. If the piece is too small, you can gently pull on the sleeve head to extend it.

6) Shape front and back body

Use your ruler to trace a line between the top corner of the shoulder line and the beginning of the hem rib. Cut excess fabric. Use ruler to trace a horizontal line from shoulder line to shoulder line and cut excess fabric.

You then have two rectangular pieces

7) Shape sleeve

Place sleeves next to the body piece. align the rib edge corner to the shoulder corner and using a ruler, cut the excess fabric on the opposite corner.Repeat the same procedure using the other body piece.

8) Sew body and sleeve pieces

Sew the body and sleeve pieces together. Depending on the original design of the sweater, you might have the front piece with an opening where the neckline was. That’s now part of the scarf design.

Sew a 1/4″ topstitch on each side of the seam to make sure that the seam allowances stay in place. Iron well using steam to flatten the scarf

The final look

I’m delighted with how this design turned out. I have used practically the entire sweater for this scarf. Only a handful of material is scrapped and this can go into my compost guild free.

The front neckline that created a gap in the scarf now becomes a design feature where you can slide other side into and secure it in place.

Not a sewist? Not a problem, You can contact me and I will gladly upcycle your loved wool or cashmere sweater into a beautiful scarf. Click the link below to get in touch.

The post How To Upcycle a Sweater Into a Scarf appeared first on Modern Mending.

The process

For this skirt, I use 2 pairs of second hand jeans. The main pair is completely upcycled as I unpick the inner seam and sew it raw edge so we can appreciate the beautiful fading only found at the edge of the original seams and the dark edge of the seam allowance that’s usually hidden

For the second pair, I use the bottom legs and keep the remaining fabric for another skirt design I have in mind (coming soon!) so that this piece is completely zero waste.

Ready made or made to order

Over the next few weeks I will be adding ready made skirts to my Etsy shop. If you’re a size 26, you are in luck as this little beauty is now available to purchase.

Not your size? Fear not, you can send me an old pair of jeans and I will gladly transform them into the Perfect Upcycled Denim Skirt just for you.

If you don’t have a pair of jeans, I can also source one for you from a second hand shop. Simply tell me the size you need and I will find you the perfect pair to transform into your new favourite skirt.

I absolutely love this design. Because each piece is cut and assembled based on the original design of the main jeans, every skirt is unique.

Click the link below to get your very own perfect upcycled denim skirt.

The post New Design: The Perfect Upcycled Denim Skirt appeared first on Modern Mending.

Mending a Vintage Denim Jacket

This 90s denim jacket was in serious need of TLC. The elbows were ripped to shreds and the collar was split at the fold. For this project, I decided to use two different techniques: for the elbows, I added inner patches in a darker denim. This is a technique which I have shared on a previous post. For the collar I used a large zig-zag stitching pattern that secured the top layer to the bottom.

Both mending techniques reinforced the worn areas while keeping the signs of wear of the jacket intact. Those worn details that come from years of wear and tear just can’t be replicated as well on new “worn out” pieces.

Alteration Of A Summer Dress

My client fell in love with this beautiful bohemian dress that was sold online. Unfortunately, when it arrived, she realized it was much too long and slightly bulky for her 5ft2 frame.

Because the gathered bottom hem is integral to the design of the dress, I didn’t want to shorten it from the bottom and lose the gorgeous volume. Instead, I removed a section of the middle part which was more basic and left the bottom hem intact. I also decided to remove the bulky look by turning the elbow sleeves into cap sleeves. This is a much more flattering line for my client’s figure.

Alteration Of A Denim Vest

In a recent blog post, I shared with you how I enlarged my favourite pair of skinny jeans by adding side strips. Well for this project I used the same technique to enlarge a loved denim vest in order to fit my client’s changing body.

This is not only an alteration, but also an upcycled project since we used the fabric of an old denim skirt my client owned to do the extension. The two tone detailing on the side now acts not only as an extension piece but a design feature of this renewed vest.

Alteration of a Linen Jacket

Last but not least, is the amazing transformation of this linen jacket from 3/4 length to bolero top.

My client loved the pattern and lightness of this thrift find however she wasn’t fond of the length. She asked me if I could shorten it to the waist. I think it was the perfect idea to make this piece look fresh and modern. Worn over slim or palazzo jeans and a white or black camisole this is now the perfect chic piece for a night out.

Do you have loved pieces in need of mending or alterations? Contact me for a free in house consultation.

The post Latest Mending And Alterations Projects In The Studio appeared first on Modern Mending.

Because they still have lots of life in them, I figured I had two options: pass them on, or make my jeans bigger by adding a strip of denim on each side. Since I’m still quite attached to them and always up for a mending challenge, here’s how I enlarged my jeans using the strip method.

The Inspiration

I was inspired by the long stranding trend in the upcycling world of adding strips to the sides. As you can see in the images below, this trend has been around for a while. From the likes of Jean-Paul Gauthier in the 90s, to Vêtements and recent street style.

There are many tutorials out there that show you ways to add a strip by cutting into another pair of jeans. Because I had raw denim on hand, I decided to go with using new fabric instead of cutting into existing jeans. The technique is however the same. Since the waist size was okay, I measured my hip width and established that I needed a 2″ strip on each side. I therefore only needed to open the side seams and leave the waist band intact.

Testing Out Stripes To Make Jeans Bigger

My original plan was to add a contrasting lighter stripe by using the reverse side of raw denim. However after adding it, I felt like it turned my jeans into too much of a sporty look. I decided that they might not be as versatile as when they were all blue. So after a bit of unpicking, I added the stripe on the dark indigo side and was very pleased with the outcome.

I love these new to me jeans, which now fit my curves comfortably and best of all, stylishly. If you have a pair of jeans that you love but are in desperate need of being made bigger, contact me here for a quote.

The post A Stylish Way To Make Jeans Bigger appeared first on Modern Mending.

Every time I see a pair of torn jeans, I feel it’s an opportunity waiting to for me to give them new life. In the past I’ve shown you the best way to patch skinny jeans, but what do you do when you have loose fitting jeans that need fixing? Let me introduce to you two beautiful ways to add multi patches to your jeans.

Why patch?

“Repair is completely about slowing it down. It’s about saying, ‘I’m going to have this item for 20, 30 years, and we’re enabling you to do that.” This quote comes from a market leader during a round table at Copenhagen Fashion Week 2023 which was hosted by the Business Of Fashion magazine.

This quote sums up perfectly my motivation why I mend my family’s and my client’s wardrobe. Yes it’s time consuming and should be seen as an investment. It adds years to clothes that might otherwise be discarded because they are no longer wearable.

Over the past few years, patching has become an art form in itself. I’m happy to share with you a few of my favourite tips to create a successful upcycle so you can artfully repair your jeans, or know what your preferred look is when you come to me with your mending needs.

Option 1: Multi Patches over Jeans

Some of my favourite inspirations comes from designers who have used various types of textiles as patches. I love combining denim with other patterned textiles for a more eclectic look. Here’s an example of a pair of jeans I patched for my son using the following fabrics: 2 tones of denim, polka dot blouse, stripe from a bed skirt, and floral jacquard from upholstery swatch.

I love unpicking and using the hem of jeans as patches. The colour fading always makes for interesting textures.

Option 2: Multi Patches Under Holes

The second option keeps the holes of the jeans visible yet adds depth by using various types of fabric under the jeans. Below is an example of this type of patch, using various shades of denim and printed linen.

For a different look, you can also use the same colour denim to cover all the holes.

If you look closely, I topstitched the larger fabric panel around the edges to keep the fabric secure and also to add a beautiful stylish detail to the front. I like using a combination of straight stitch around the holes, as well a large zigzag stitching over frayed holes in order to keep the threads in place.

Materials to use for Multi Patches

When it comes to choosing the best types of materials for patches, I strongly recommend going with your personal tastes. That said, I love using a few colors of denim as the base patches and then giving a pop of color with two or tree different textures such as stripes, florals or plaids.

If you’re a thrifter, keep an eye out for upholstery fabric, and especially sample squares. There’s just enough fabric in a sample square to make at least 4 to 6 patches. Upholstery fabrics are sturdy and usually are either a textured jacquard or brocade which adds a beautiful contrast with the denim. Here’s an example of a few swatches I found in my local thrift store which I’m keeping for future repairs.

If you have a favourite pair of jeans that could do with being creatively patched, contact me for a quote.

The post Two Ways To Add Multi Patches On Jeans appeared first on Modern Mending.

Before the restoration

As you can see from the images below, the damage was quite extensive. My friend has estimated that this piece is about 50 years old, made from Chinese silk jacquard. With time, the silk has frayed at the various tension points and edges, making it unwearable in it’s current state.

The restoration process

I proposed to remove the cuffs and use this fabric to make a gusset under the armholes as well as insert panels at the shoulders to replace the frayed fabric. Although the bolero was only torn on one side, I made gussets on both sides for balance. In order to minimize pulling during future use, I recommended that we add a lining to the jacket. The lining will therefore protect from friction as well as take on the stress from arm movement when worn.

As per my friend’s request, I found a beautiful bemberg lining which matched the red in the jacquard pattern. Although more expensive and a bit more difficult to work with because of it’s light silky feel, bemberg lining has a much nicer drape than regular polyester lining which can be quite stiff.

The completed restoration of the heirloom jacket

Because I didn’t have enough of the jacquard fabric to make the wider hem and cuff needed to attach to the lining, we improvised by using satin from my friend’s wedding dress which she gave me in case it could be of use. It has the perfect stiffness to make an invisible hem and I find that it also makes a beautiful contrasting detail when paired with the red lining.

My friend was overjoyed with the result and will now be able to enjoy wearing it for years to come.

Do you have a special heirloom jacket or garment in need of restoration. Send me a message on the link below with a picture of the garment for a quote.

The post Restoration Of An Heirloom Jacket appeared first on Modern Mending.

What you will need

For this project, I highly recommend using an old t-shirt that might not be getting worn as often as it could. Adding an embroidered design just might be the perfect detail to bring it to the top of the well loved pile. This design is also great to cover a stain or small holes on a shirt as the design incorporates the star stitch. It’s one of my favourite techniques to repair a small hole. For this project, I’m using one of my kids old black t-shirts which will be perfect to show off the moon and stars design.

Supplies

Here are the items you will need for this project:

A t-shirt

Print out of the moon and stars embroidery design or design of your own making

Paper scissors

Fabric chalk (for dark fabric) or washable marker (for lighter fabric)

Embroidery hoop

Needle and embroidery thread

Preparing to hand embroider the T-shirt

Print out the Moon & Stars embroidery design. The actual size is perfect for an adult t-shirt. If you prefer to embroider it onto a kids size top, you can reduce the size. I reduced it to 50% before printing it out. Once printed out, cut out the shapes of the moon and a circle at the center of each star.

Next, I positioned the design on the top right side of the t-shirt. I want the moon to look like it’s an embellished logo. You can position the embroidery wherever you prefer. Centred in the front or at the bottom slightly to the side also looks nice. Use a washable marker to trace the design on a light coloured t-shirt. If you’re embroidering a dark t-shirt, use fabric chalk.

Place embroidery hoop over the design. The hoop will allow you to work on a flat surface which will make hand embroidering your t-shirt much easier. For this project, I used a single strand of embroidery floss and tied both ends in a knot so that I embroider with a double strand without the risk of losing the needle.

Stitches to hand embroider a t-shirt

For the moon, I decided to go with a back stitch. Have a look at the image below to see how to start it. If you’ve never done a backstitch before, you can have a look at this video tutorial.

Next I used a simple star stitch for the stars. This is also a great stitch to use when you want to repair a small hole in a t-shirt. Click on the image below for a tutorial I shared on instagram.

The finished t-shirt

This project took under an hour to make and I’m really pleased with the result. It’s simpe yet stylish and quite versatile which would work for either a boy or a girl. Since the t-shirt no longer fits my kids, I will be gifting this newly embroidered t-shirt to a young friend. Here’s hoping it gets lots of love. Are you inspired to do the same? Share your work on social media and tag me so I can see your beautiful work.

If you’re looking for a more elaborate project to gift to a loved one, have a look at my LOVE Embroidery Pattern on Etsy. There’s something quite special about making an embroidered piece. The making is a gift of time and love just as much to yourself as to the person receiving it.

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