How To Fix A Hole Or Tear In Jeans

So a few weeks ago I pulled out my favorite pair of dark denim jeans and noticed that two holes had mysteriously appeared in the crotch area… In all fairness, I have been wearing these jeans for at least 4 years a few times a week so I guess it’s inevitable that they would get worn out. Obviously being a little passionate with helping you make your loved clothes last, I saw this as an opportunity to write another tutorial on how to a fix hole or tear in jeans with the invisible mending technique.

If you’re new to machine sewing or haven’t done it in a while, this is the perfect project to practice sewing in a straight line.

As much as I am a fan of visible mending, when it comes to crotch repair, I prefer not to bring attention to that particular area. For this reason, I use the invisible mending technique with a sewing machine to reinforce the fabric. This tutorial is very similar to the previous one I posted a few weeks ago with the main difference that we will be using fabric to reinforce the jeans where the hole or tear is and adding a few more rows of stitching to hide the hole completely. If you want to fix jeans that are worn out but don’t yet have a tear or hole, read the blog post here.

This technique works on both stretch and non stretch clothing

The following is a step by step tutorial on how to repair your worn jeans. If you’re new to machine sewing or haven’t done it in a while, this is the perfect project to practice sewing in a straight line. This technique works on both stretch and non stretch clothing since we will be reinforcing the grain line (or warp) of the fabric only. What is the grain line you ask? Here are two illustrations I made to explain the foundation of a woven textile:

Textiles 101: Warp and Weft

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Supplies needed

• Jeans to be mended
• Sewing Machine
• Washable marker or Tailor’s chalk
• 100% Cotton thread same color as jeans
• Scrap fabric for patch similar in color and composition or 100% cotton fusing (if repairing 100% cotton jeans only)
• Fabric scissors
• Pins

So first and foremost, the most important supply for this tutorial is the thread. There are two reasons why you want to use 100% cotton thread: The first one is because we want to make sure that these jeans can either be recycled or down-cycled at the end of their life. If you use 100% cotton, it is most likely the same composition as the jeans (unless you have poly blend jeans which I highly recommend avoiding) minus the possible 2%-10% Lycra (or Spandex) if your jeans have stretch.

The second reason to choose 100% cotton thread is because it will have a better feel, and age nicely. Most sewing thread is made from polyester which is basically plastic, so make sure to get 100% cotton at your local fabric store. It’s a bit more expensive but well worth the price. It’s also the only expense you will incur for this project so worth the $4.

Tip for buying jeans: Chose jeans that are 100% natural fibers, they are more comfortable to wear, they age beautifully, last longer and are biodegradable. Blended fabrics currently cannot be recycled into new fabric..

Step 1: Mark area that needs to be reinforced

Place your jeans next to a window to see exactly the size of the area that needs to be reinforced. It’s usually a bit wider than what is visible on the surface. On the front side of the jeans, mark the area that needs to be reinforced. Use a washable marker or tailor’s chalk. I usually mark 1” higher and wider than the worn out area for additional reinforcement.

Step 2: Cut patch

Cut a patch that is the same dimension as the area you marked on the jeans. If you are repairing jeans that are 100% cotton, you can use cotton fusing to make the job easier. If you are repairing stretch jeans you need to use stretch denim for the patch in order for the fabric to keep it’s elasticity. You can purchase a small amount of stretch denim at a fabric store. I usually keep a pair of old jeans in my mending box that I cut as needed and make patches with.

Step 3: Position patch over hole

Flip jeans inside out and place patch over the area that needs to be reinforced. If you are using stretch fabric, make sure that the patch is in the correct position so that both weft threads are in the same direction (see denim 101 above). Secure with pins.

Step 4: Reposition pins on front side

Because we will be working on the top side of the fabric, we need to re-position pins on the front side of the jeans so that they are easier to remove.

Step 5: Sew jeans inside out

Always sew with the jeans inside out to avoid sewing two sides together. If you’re fixing your crotch, start next to the inner seam and sew towards the outside. If you’re repairing another part of the jeans, start at one corner of the patch, using the pins as a reference guide. Make sure as you are sewing that the patch is layed flat under the jeans. Even pinned down it sometimes moves around or the edges fold over.

Step 6: The secret to making the repair look invisible and allow the jeans to keep their elasticity

Sew straight lines following the grain line. Because the elasticized thread is always on the Weft (see Fabric 101 above), sewing straight lines over the grain line replaces the worn out fabric and keeps the jeans stretchy. They might be a bit stiffer than they were originally but they will soften over time.

Start on one corner and work your way up and down the fabric. If the area is more than 2” in length, I sew a straight line, bring needle down in the fabric, lift the presser foot and turn the jeans in the opposite direction to sew back up. Therefore I’m always sewing a straight line and have better control of the machine. If the area is less than 2” in length, I use the reverse sewing knob to sew back and forth without turning the the jeans each time. It’s better to use this only for small areas otherwise you risk sewing diagonally. Try to space out the seams, max 1/8” apart so they stay fairly parallel. See illustration below for diagram of stitching.

After I have done one pass over the whole area, I usually go over the area with a second pass and try to sew in between the lines I made the first time. Once you are near the hole or tear, begin to sew many rows next to each other over the hole or tear. For this part of the repair, I usually go forward and backwards without turning the jeans. Instead, I use the reverse sewing knob.

Step 7: Trim excess fabric off patch

Once you have finished sewing you can trim the excess fabric on the reverse side of the jeans to avoid having it bunch up when you wear them. Make sure you leave 1/4″ of fabric from the stitching to avoid cutting the actual jeans.

The time it will take you to fix the hole or tear in your jeans obviously will depend on the size of the area you need to repair. For this project, It took me about 30 minutes to fix each hole once the patch was cut and pinned. So pour yourself a cup of tea, wine or beverage of choice, put on your favorite playlist or podcast and make those loved clothes last a few more years. Your wallet and mother earth will thank you.

Please let me know in the comment below if you found this tutorial useful or have any questions. If you are as passionate as I am with repairing and embellishing your clothes, have a browse through my shop and see the beautiful visible patch patterns I have developed to make yours and your family’s loved clothes last.

Happy Mending!