How To Fix Jeans With Invisible Mending Technique

Seven years ago I purchased for the very first time, a pair of jeans that cost over $200. Ouch. Where I live, we have this lovely boutique that carries independent brands which are for the most part either locally and/or ethically made. So after many months of dreaming, I gifted myself a pair of Hudson Jeans for my Birthday. Bless the honest owner of this shop, she warned me that light colored denim did tend to wear more quickly than dark. The bleaching used to wash out the color, does have the unfortunate side effect of weakening the fiber. But regardless, I was in love with the jeans and decided that when the time came that they wore out, I would fix them so my investment lasted longer. Here we are, seven years later and my crotch and the back of the jeans are wearing way too thinly for me to safely go out with them in public.

As much as I am a fan of visible mending, when it comes to crotch repair, I prefer not to bring attention to that particular area. For this reason, I use the invisible mending technique with a sewing machine to reinforce the fabric. Because I want you to make your loved clothes last and stay away from the landfill, I am sharing with you this technique I have come to love.

If you’re new to machine sewing or haven’t done it in a while, this is the perfect project to practice sewing in a straight line.

The following is a step by step tutorial on how to repair your worn jeans. If you’re new to machine sewing or haven’t done it in a while, this is the perfect project to practice sewing in a straight line. This tutorial is going to focus on jeans that are worn down, and perhaps have small holes. If you have a large tear or hole because you waited too long to fix your jeans (ahem), I have written a tutorial specifically for this as well. Click here.

This technique works on both stretch and non stretch clothing

Lovers of skinny jeans, you can rejoice. This technique works on both stretch and non stretch clothing since we will be reinforcing the grain line (or warp) of the fabric only. What is the grain line you ask? Here are two little illustrations I made to explain the foundation of a woven textile:

Textiles 101: Warp and Weft

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Supplies needed

• Jeans to be mended
• Sewing Machine
• Washable marker or Tailor’s chalk
• 100% Cotton thread same color as jeans
• Thread cutter or scissors

Source 100% Cotton Thread for sustainable sewing

So first and foremost, the most important supply for this tutorial is the thread. There are two reasons why you want to use 100% cotton thread: The first one is because we want to make sure that these jeans can either be recycled or down-cycled at the end of their life. If you use 100% cotton, it is most likely the same composition as the jeans (unless you have poly blend jeans which I highly recommend avoiding) minus the possible 2%-10% Lycra (or Spandex) if your jeans have stretch.

The second reason to choose 100% cotton thread is because it will have a better feel, and age nicely. Most sewing thread is made from polyester which is basically plastic, so make sure to get 100% cotton at your local fabric store. It’s a bit more expensive but well worth the price. It’s also the only expense you will incur for this project so worth the $4.

Tip for buying jeans: Chose jeans that are 100% natural fibers, they are more comfortable to wear, they age beautifully, last longer and are biodegradable. Blended fabrics currently cannot be recycled into new fabric.

Step 1: Mark area that needs to be reinforced

Place your jeans next to a window to see exactly the size of the area that needs to be reinforced. It’s usually a bit wider than what is visible on the surface.

On the front side of the jeans, mark the area that needs to be reinforced. Use a washable marker or tailor’s chalk. I usually mark at 1” wider than the worn out area for additional reinforcement.

Step 2: Flip Jeans inside out

Always sew with the jeans inside out to avoid sewing two sides together.

Step 3: The secret to making the repair look invisible and allow the jeans to keep their elasticity

Sew straight lines following the grain line. Because the elasticized thread is always on the Weft (see Fabric 101 above), sewing straight lines over the grain line replaces the worn out fabric and keeps the jeans stretchy. They might be a bit stiffer than they were originally but they will soften over time.

Start on one corner of the repair area and work your way up and down the fabric. If the area is more than 2” in length, I sew a straight line, bring needle down through the fabric, lift the foot and turn the jeans in the opposite direction to sew back up. Therefore I’m always sewing a straight line and have better control of the machine. If the area is less than 2” in length, I use the reverse lever to sew back and forth without turning the the jeans each time. It’s better to use the reverse lever only for small areas otherwise you risk losing control of your machine and sew diagonally. Try to space out the seams, max 1/8” apart so they stay fairly parallel. See illustration below.

After I have done one pass over the whole area, I usually go over the area with a second pass and try to sew in between the lines I made the first time. If you feel that there aren’t enough seams to secure the worn out area, you can go over it a third time.

The time it will take to fix your jeans obviously will depend on the size of the area that needs repair. On average, an area that is about 4 square inches will take about 30 minutes to fix. So pour yourself a cup of tea, wine or beverage of choice, put on your favorite playlist or podcast and make those loved clothes last a few more years. Your wallet and mother earth will thank you.

Please let me know in the comment below if you found this tutorial useful or have any questions.

Happy Mending!